First let me start by explaining what PDR or paintless dent removal for those of you out there who have never heard the term. PDR is conceptually simple, easy to put it is the process of removing the damage of the automobile body panel without the need for grinding, sanding, body fillers or painting (hence the term paintless ).
the process of removing damaged vehicles without the need for painting, then it is not really new at all, although industry legend differs from story to story, Mercedes Benz allegedly began with the "Metal Men" the work of small imperfections in the plates, while still on the assembly line back in 1950th Today's PDR technicians have adapted different techniques for removing dings and students from the vehicle without the need for fillers and re-painting almost as a form of art. Better tools, training and improvement in the durability of automotive clear coat led to amazing results for even the great students.
Why can not I just use a trace of Popper, such as those you see on TV?
Unfortunately trace pregnancy, suction cups, and (this one makes me chuckle) dry ice just does not work. First let's explore "squeeze dent pregnant. You've probably seen the late night infomercials Ding King shows you how easy it is just glue on the card, place card, and the lifter face. POP! dent is gone! is not it? Wrong! commercial never shows a high spot and low spot still left, or heaven forbid a high spot surrounding low, or as I like to call them "volcano". The main reason for this is the trick, lacking the tools and knowledge. Professional PDR technicians do not actually use the method of removing some select students on the front panel with tabs, special adhesives and lifting apparatus.
The main difference? Technicians major asset to their eyes, reflecting the source, and hand-eye-coordination. professional engineer with a dent estimates reflecting the source, whether it is light, the line board or reflective pillar aims "dead-center " in the recess. After a technician places the card directly to the zero point, and then used to pick up the device to depressed metal as close to level as possible in one pull. After the draw was made the technician removes the card and the estimated area to determine the next course of action. Usually, the area will require some work to tap down the device at any areas that are pulled over levels. This process can go on multiple pulls and faucets while an area as close to level as possible. Do-it-yourself-er would not be reflective source, touch down, or training in how to use each of these items and more often than not makes a small door ding variables mess when it finally decides to throw in the towel. suction cup is simply ineffective.
damage to a very large and can actually move gradually from the suction is strong enough and it May actually looks slightly better than the original track, but it is effectively "locks"into place and the metal distortion or buckle around the area that have not properly removed before addressing the low-lying areas are now cementing track everything in its place. The remaining subject (and my favorite), dry ice, and hair dryer seems to rave reviews on You-tube and the like. Unfortunately, it still does not solve the buckles and sometimes eliminates part of the trail.
The main down side to this method is the process it uses. Dry ice or "computer cleaner" fuels will quickly cool the substrate and the color. hair dryer is then used to quickly bring the panel temp. above 150 degrees F. The rapid contraction and subsequent expansion of the substrate is what really makes the track pop, but what happens at a much lower degree of damage to the paint. the color is almost always a micro-fracture which leads to cracking paint, peeling and corrosion. Much of this damage will not be visible for a few months down the road, when the elements had the time for violating fractures and make them worse.
One PDR company is as good as another, right?
all traces of companies are not created equal, and actually let me expand on that by saying all of PDR technicians are not created equally. One of the main reasons for the boom in the growth of PDR is the "claim to fame" or "gold rush" mentality. We've all seen the ads for get rich quick schemes. Some are very talented technicians have and still make a good living repairing dents. Most earn moderate incomes who are not yet carry the bragging rights. Every Tom, Dick and Harry are tired from their 9-5 job is learning about the alleged six-figure income by PDR technicians and heads for two weeks training on the mis-information factory as Ding King or the right look and think that will set the world on fire directly afterwards. In reality, they spend two (or even one) week learning a little about the real world, students and almost always pick up bad habits that will doom them from ever being able to repair the track properly.
"Mills", as they fondly referred to in the industry, also a technician wishes to sell a "package" deal with every tool needed to repair any dent out. Unfortunately, what they actually getting the cheapest set of Chinese hangers made good money can buy. desire technician returns home after training and (after being told that they are willing) start selling their services. A problem that often can not see the track properly to repair it and not have gained the skill set to repair the smallest dings. The end result is a moderate improvement of the high points around the track, even cracked color. technician or continue on frustrated, trying to do better (or not if they do not care enough about the quality), or it will lower prices to justify themselves inferior quality repair is still worth something.
and still will throw in the towel all together after you have a bad name for themselves that they can no longer find work. This wave of low end "technicians" led to the misconception that the PDR is inferior to the repair process in relation to the body shop. In fact, this concept is true when referring to someone performing such gross butchery. A general rule of thumb for PROFESSIONAL paintless Dent Repair is that it should cost between 1 / 2 to 1 / 3 of usual body repair. Professional technicians have to spend hundreds if not thousands, of hours perfecting their craft and do not sell it short. If you find yourself shopping for the best job (lets face it, in this economy, who do not) be suspicious of the price floor. More often than not you'll get what you pay for and will end up wishing you had paid a little more when it starts to rust appears, where the indentation crack hack for your car color!
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